A couple of weeks ago I visited the Muxía, Fisterra and Dumbria area, the south and less known area of Costa da Morte in Spain. One of those amazing places in Galicia where your only option is to go there by car or hiking through Camino de Santiago (the extension way from Santiago de Compostela just covers this area on an almost round route.)
The area is full of great places where to enjoy the rich Galician gastronomy and enjoy the slow living of its inhabitants. We were on a route (#acostadamorteenamora) that would take us through the most beautiful places on the area, and these are the places we visited (for food and sleep).
Sleeping at Lires
We set our base at Lires, a small town well-known for an amazing sunset (known as the Lires sunset). We couldn’t see this beautiful sunset at Costa da Morte, the weather was awful for that, but even then the location is top to go around the south of Costa da Morte.
We stayed at a place called Cabañas de Lires, 3 wooden cabins at the entry of Lires town. Some sort of hybrid between a traditional rural lodging and rural chic. Each of the cabins has its own name and a distinctive color.
Small but cozy, each cabin can host up to 4 people and a pet, and has all the items needed for a pleasant independent stay. They also have a swimming pool, farm animals and an adventure trail for kids and adults. Just in case you feel like staying there instead of visiting all the amazing surroundings they have.
Other places to stay in the area
There are many rural lodgings in the area. For instance, Ines from Cabañas de Lires has a more traditional place called Casa Jesús just around the corner.
For the more “urban” there are hotels at Muxia and Cee, and they are building a new Parador not far from here.
And if you feel like going along the Way, there are plenty pilgrim shelters and hostels. Private ones are quite modern, but the public one at Olveiroa is a must visit for the location (a group of traditional Galician houses that have been rebuilt to welcome the pilgrims.)
As I was telling you, you can enjoy an amazing gastronomy at Costa da Morte. Fish is fresh from the day, but they also have cattle and greens, so there are great options. This is what we did:
Dinner at Olveiroa
It was a foggy rainy day, but Ada, from Dumbria tourism board took us to Olveiroa to see this small town that has been recovered around The Way. Besides the pilgrims shelter I told you about before, the town is also known by the century-old hórreos (a typical Galician construction to store grain isolated from moisture) that are illuminated at night.
The place we went for dinner was As Pías, a restaurant (and small hotel) that is only 70 meters away from the Olveiroa pilgrims’ shelter. We sat by the fire, enjoining an amazing selection fo dishes of fish and meat that I topped with a café de pota (old-style coffee made on a pot and spiced).
Lunch at Muxía
There are many fish & seafood restaurants at Costa da Morte. We went to A Casa do Peixe, just at the entry of Muxía. It is a marine style place that has dried conger eels as decoration.
Muxía is a very important producer of dried conger eel, but it is not a dish commonly available in the area, as they are keener for the fresh produce. We went for local fish and it was the right choice. Simple cooking but very tasty and really fresh produce. It is not a wonder why it was almost full in the middle of the week.
Dinner at Corcubión
After spending all the evening covering the coast between Muxía and Finisterre, we went to Corcubión for dinner. This time the place chosen was O Ribeiro, a beautiful refurbished two-storey house by the harbour..
They define the place as a “sailor tavern”, but they are also famous for their burgers (we didn’t try them out but when Alberto posted we were there for dinner, we got some tweets with recommendations on what to order 😉 ) and for the tapas (galician style: octopus, clams….) Great choice for a relaxed dinner with friends.
Other places where to eat at the area between Muxia, Fisterra and Dumbria
We are gastro lovers, but we didn’t have time for more. However, we were told to go to a place called Mar Viva at Corcubión. It is a very interesting project between fish market and restaurant that seems to be having great critics. It is close to O Ribeiro, though they are really different concepts.